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Acne & Breakouts

Evidence-based routines for acne and breakouts from credentialed experts: which actives actually work, how to layer them safely, and when to see a dermatologist.

Every claim below carries an evidence grade. What do these grades mean?

ANDREA SUAREZ, MD ACNE

Hormonal acne needs a different plan

the expert's own view, educational, not medical advice, not endorsed by us

  • ModerateSuarez describes the pattern that suggests a hormonal driver: breakouts along the jaw and chin that flare with the cycle
  • ModerateStandard topical actives, benzoyl peroxide and a retinoid, are still the first step even when acne is hormonally driven
  • StrongSpironolactone and combined hormonal contraceptives are prescription options when topicals have not worked, a decision for a dermatologist and never a self directed add
  • LimitedBefore assuming it is hormonal, log your breakouts against your cycle for a month; the pattern is the evidence
SOURCE →
EVIDENCE ACNE

Spironolactone helped women whose acne would not clear

Moderate

A 2025 meta analysis in the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology pooled five placebo controlled randomized trials covering 563 women and found oral spironolactone reduced acne severity more than placebo. It is usually considered only after topical treatment and antibiotics have failed on hormonal pattern acne, the jawline and chin breakouts that track the cycle. It is a prescription anti androgen with real side effects, including breast tenderness and menstrual changes, and it is unsafe in pregnancy. This is a conversation to have with a dermatologist, never something to source or start on your own.

SOURCE →
SHEREENE IDRISS ACNE

Try these actives before giving up on acne

the expert's own view, educational, not medical advice, not endorsed by us

  • StrongBenzoyl peroxide is one of the best evidenced over the counter acne actives for reducing acne causing bacteria
  • ModerateSalicylic acid helps clear clogged pores and blackheads in oily, acne prone skin
  • ModerateIdriss advises introducing actives one at a time and giving each 6 to 8 weeks before calling it a failure
  • StrongRetinoids remain the best evidenced long term acne active but need a slow ramp to avoid irritation
  • StrongCystic or scarring acne that has not responded to over the counter actives is a dermatologist visit, not a longer DIY trial
SOURCE →
Michelle WongCosmetic Chemist & Science EducatorLab Muffin Beauty Science Michelle Wong
ACNE
Evidence-Based Acne Routine
  1. 1Benzoyl peroxide, 2.5-5% (Research Wong references found 2.5% benzoyl peroxide performs about as well as 10% with less irritation, so a low strength is a reasonable starting point)
  2. 2Salicylic acid (BHA), 0.5-2% (A leave-on salicylic acid product at 0.5-2%, used regularly rather than occasionally)
  3. 3Azelaic acid (Used as a separate step for post-acne redness and dark marks, alongside (not instead of) the actives above)
What to buy
Moisturiser ~$18
Broad-spectrum sunscreen ~$40
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Andrea SuarezBoard-Certified DermatologistAmerican Board of Dermatology Andrea Suarez
SKIN
Rosacea & Eczema: The Barrier-First Approach
  1. 1Use a gentle, non-foaming cleanser (Wash with a gentle, non-foaming cleanser rather than a harsh, stripping one; avoid over-washing.)
  2. 2Apply a fragrance-free, ceramide-based moisturizer (Use a fragrance-free moisturizer containing ceramides, applied daily, to directly support the skin barrier both conditions share as a weak point.)
  3. 3Apply a daily mineral sunscreen (Use a mineral (zinc oxide or titanium dioxide) sunscreen every day; sun exposure is a common trigger for rosacea flushing and can aggravate compromised eczema skin.)
What to buy
Moisturiser ~$18
Mineral sunscreen ~$36
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